1,000 Miles Down… 1,000 To Go

The last three weeks have been a shit-storm of epic vistas, brutal winds, wet tents, secluded beaches, solo skinny-dipping, burger binges, and adrenaline induced truck dodging. My cheekbones are rosy from sunburn and wind-chap. My palms are sore and callused from supporting my weight on my barely-padded handlebars. A damp tent and odorous sleeping bag are no cause of discomfort. Putting on the same damp shirt I’ve sweated in for the last 200 miles is casual and without... Read More

American Gladiators mixed with Monster Truck Madness

The last few days have been manic swings from extreme danger to bliss and solitude. After my day of riding through the rain and getting two flats, I felt like my nerves had been hardened. The road was an unruly beast I had reached an agreement with. Then, I enjoyed what felt like the life of luxury in Cape Disappointment. Had my luck changed? On my way into Oregon I received a wakeup call to my naivety. When you cross the border from Washington to Oregon along the coast, there... Read More

Cape Disappointment – Hoping for Irony

  When I arrived in Cape Disappointment, I was greeted by gas stations and auto shops. As far as foreplay goes, the town around the cape hadn’t really ignited any romantic sparks. While I was feeling a little discouraged after all the rain and flat tires, I decided I better start exploring to see what I could find. After a little ride up the peninsula, I had found what I was looking for… road-warrior romance. Funky diners, boutique coffee shops, candy and kite stores,... Read More

Rain Storms, Flat Tires, and a Sweet New Dance

After a couple of weeks of foul weather reports and threatening clouds, it finally started raining. Luckily my ride for the day was mostly over. I had already eaten my power meal (a double bacon cheeseburger with fries) and knew there was a warm shower at camp. Being in my tent as the storm moved in was wonderful. I was warm and dry, my belly was full, and the the sound of the rain on the tent put me at ease. It was supposed to rain all day the following day so I was considering... Read More

Orcas Island

Orcas Island is shaped like a horseshoe. Like a cruel joke, the ferry dock is on one end of the shoe, while the campsite is on the end of the other shoe. To make the joke funnier, you arrive on the island at sea level (naturally) and spend the entire 15 mile ride climbing to an elevation of 2,409 feet. On the bright side, the campsite had warm showers, the rain had stopped, and the ride in the morning would be mostly downhill.  Read More

Avoiding Tickets, Fistfights, and Gunshots

On the ferry to Orcas Island, I found myself huddled over the bathroom hand-drier, aiming my sleeves up so the hot air would rush through my jacket’s arms. I straddled the wall so my bare calves might dry off and warm up. I’m sure I looked indecent, but warmth on my calves was far more comforting than anything vanity could award me tonight. I caught myself laughing out loud alone in the bathroom. The last eighteen hours felt like an accidental covert operation on San Juan... Read More

Inventing Cuss Words

  When I got off the ferry, I was secretly dreading paying another $16 for a gravel campsite equipped only with a “shit-pit” and water spigot. I started walking the ferry docks asking folks if they knew of any good places to camp undetected. One gal seemed to have a wealth of knowledge on “illegal” campsites and began reciting directions. “Go down that way until you see a market. When you see a green fence (which was brown by the way) hang a... Read More

Ferry Island Hopping

One of my favorite parts of the trip so far is when I get to stop pedaling for an hour or so, load my bike onto a ferry, and take a nap in the sun on the deck of the ship. The views of the steep, snow covered mountains remind me of the Norwegian fjords. Without a cloud in the sky and a moderate warm breeze blowing across the front of the ship, shorts and a shirt are perfect nap attire. It’s easy to get lost in thought, dreaming of the places I’ve been and all the... Read More

Vancouver!!!

After a brief stay with my good friend in Seattle, I waddled back on the train for Vancouver. Since I would be arriving around noon, my plan was to drag all my stuff outside the train station and start putting it together. Apparently I hadn’t spent enough time in train stations to understand that this wasn’t the best of plans. As it turns out, train stations are a haven for crazy people. Why do you think I was there? After dragging my boxes and bags outside, a constant... Read More

Train Rides, Starting Gates, and Roller Coasters

Riding the train was like a roller coaster that climbs for thirty hours before your first decent. As romantic and scenic as the ride was, it ended just soon enough. My mind was already on the long road ahead of me. This is probably my favorite pictures from the ride. More soon…  Read More